Toyota 1VD-FTV into 100-series LandCruiser Engine Conversion - Page 4
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Electrical / Air Conditioning / Power Steer / Cooling

Looms

After removing the engines from both vehicles, I removed basically the entire front-half of the wiring loom from the 70 series, and installed it into the 100 series alongside the existing loom. I could have stripped the loom down, but decided it would be faster and simpler to just install the entire loom and only connect the required terminals. Basically, this means you can ignore the lighting (Except the interior light), A/C and fan and other bits and pieces.


ECU

The ECU is mounted in the engine bay in a custom sealed steel box, mounted to the firewall. It's wired to the 70's intact loom.


Immobiliser (Updated 2/10/09)

When I installed the 70-series engine, ECU and loom, it included the immobiliser system for the new engine. The important part of this system is a plastic ring that surrounds the ignition barrel and instructs the ECU to allow the engine to start when the correct transponder key is inserted. So to use the new engine, you MUST have a working master (black) key from the doner 70-series.

The only problem is that the ignition barrel and the transponder key of the 100 is different to the 70's.

The solution is this:

  • Remove the 100-series ring from the ignition barrel, and install the 70-series ring in it's place.
  • Have a hybrid key cut and programmed. To achieve this, I needed to attend a locksmith who was equipped with a transponder key programming machine, and provide them with an original 100-series key (so a new key which would operate the doors and ignition barrel could be physically cut). I also needed an original (black) key from the doner 70-series. The transponder code from this key is then written to the new key, and I ended up with a hybrid key that incorporated the 100's cut with the 70's transponder.

Because Toyota changed their immobiliser system in ~2002, it's not possible to program the 70's immobiliser to recognise the 100's key transponder, hence the need for new keys.


Ignition Barrel

This is a key connection point for the 70 series loom into the 100 series. Leaving most of the 100 series loom connected to the barrel (with the exception of the "start" wire) to allow the vehicle systems to operate, while connecting the 70 series loom to the 100 series barrel in parallel. I had to test the 70 series wires manually, as the Factory Service Manual wiring diagram had different wire colour listing to those found on the vehicle. These were the connections I made:

70 series wire colour Connected to...
100 series loom wire colour
Purpose of wire
Black/Red White/Red Power In #1
Brown Black/Red w/Silver dots Power In #2
Blue/Red Black w/Silver dots Accessories
Black/Yellow Black/Red Ignition #1
Brown/White Blue/Black w/Silver dots Ignition #2
Black/White +
Brown/Red
Black/White Start
Green/White x2
(on key insert Switch)
Black/Red w/Silver dots x2
(on key insert switch)
Tells the immobiliser and other control units when the key is inserted and removed.


Gauges

Temperature:
I'm using the Scangauge II as a temperature gauge.

Oil Pressure/Level:
I simply connected the 100's wiring loom to both the oil pressure and oil level sensors, as the 70's sensors are only connected to the gauge, not the ECU.

Tacho:
I'm using the Scangauge II as a tacho.

Speedo:
I currently have the 100's dash speedo connected normally, but there is no speed input going to the ECU. This results in an error code appearing on the scangauge, but there is no other effect (ie: does not initiate a limp mode or any engine effects).


Alternator, Battery and Starter

I removed the wiring for the 100's starter and the main charge line from the alternator.

Connecting the intact 1VD engine loom to the battery connects it's starter and alternator charge lines. Charging then operates through the 70's main charge line and fusible link. The alternator also sends a signal to the ECU and gets it's power through the 1VD's "Engine" fuse. In order to have the dashboard charge warning light work properly, I found it necessary to connect the 100's charge warning light wire to the 1VD's alternator. On my vehicle, this meant connecting the Black/Orange wire on the 100's alternator loom to the Yellow wire from the 1VD's alternator connector plug.

Making the ignition barrel connections detailed above allows the 1VD's starting and glow plug circuits to operate. I removed the 100's starter motor wires from the engine bay as they were no longer required.

I originally had a dual battery system in the 100, but I had to remove the 2nd battery to make room for the Donaldson air cleaner. It might have been possible to use a smaller air cleaner and install a small 2nd battery, but as I moved my 2nd battery into my camper trailer, I had no need for it in the Cruiser.


Air Conditioning

I used the 1VD's compressor. There isn't really a choice, as it mounts differently to the 100 compressor and the 1VD uses a serpentine belt to drive all the ancillaries. I doubt it would be possible to mount the 100's compressor to the V8.

The 70's AC compressor has a three-wire loom. One wire activates the clutch, while the other two are for the ECU for idleup etc. The 100's compressor has a single wire that only activates the clutch. I connected this wire (Green/SilverDots) in parallel to the 70's clutch wire (Yellow/Green), and left the 70's 3 wires connected as well.

Update 2/10/09: I have just had the gas lines for the compressor hooked up by David Roberts Automotive in Penrith. Because Toyota have changed their proprietary A/C fittings, I needed to use the lines from both the 100 and the 70 and have them welded together in order to get the AC lines connected. Total cost was $350 including regas. On David's advice, I also changed one of the electric engine fans to trip on with the compressor, rather than being thermatically controlled.


Power Steering

I had a custom power steer pressure line made by my local Pirtek for $150. This line used the 1VD's pump banjo fitting (with pressure sensor), connected to the 100's steering box fitting via a 40cm flexible hose.

From there, I used my old 100 series reservoir (as the 70's was damaged), and attached the return line to the reservoir and reservoir to the pump.


Fans and Cooling (Updated 11/11/12)

Getting the cooling system sorted involved some trial and error.

I originally used the standard 100-series radiator combined with a twin electric fan module from a Ford Falcon. This usually proved to be adequate, but on hotter days and when towing, the vehicle's temperature would slowly climb, although it never overheated as backing off the throttle was sufficient to manage the temperature.

I then installed a heavy duty 3-core aluminium radiator from Aussie Desert Cooler. The Ford fan module was too thick to fit with the bigger radiator, so I replaced it with twin Davies-Craig 14" low profile electric fans. This combination was an improvement, however still resulted in a temperature climb under some conditions.

The next improvement came from modifying and refitting the Falcon fan module to the new radiator. Again, this resulted in an improvement. For typical road, off-road and towing conditions the setup did the job nicely. However, the temperature would still rise under extreme conditions, such as extended heavy engine load on very hot days.

I then discovered that Davies-Craig had released a new 14" high-performance electric fan, with a 1695cfm (cubic feet per minute) rating. This was about 60% higher than either their original fan or the fans within the Ford module. Even better, the fans essentially bolt in to the Ford fan shroud, allowing me to combine the higher air volume with the efficiency of a shroud. This setup proved to keep the temperature under control no matter what the conditions.

Here's the evolution of the cooling system for the conversion:

Photo
(click to enlarge)

Details Total air volume Comments
Ford BA falcon fan

• Original radiator
• Ford shroud
• Twin Ford fans

2000 CFM
(approx)
Adequate for most driving in warm temperatures and cautious towing in cool temperatures.
Davies-Craig fans • New radiator
• Twin Davies-Craig 14"
low profile fans
2000 CFM Adequate for most driving in warm temperatures and most towing in cool temperatures.
Aussie Desert Cooler with Ford fans • New radiator
• Ford shroud
• Twin Ford fans
2000 CFM
(approx)
Adequate for most driving in hot temperatures and most towing in warm temperatures.
Aussie Desert Cooler with Davies-Craig fans

• New radiator
• Ford shroud
• Twin Davies-Craig 14"
high performance fans

3390 CFM No cooling issues found under any conditions.

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