Looms

After removing the engines from both vehicles, I removed basically the entire front-half of the wiring loom from the 70 series, and installed it into the 100 series alongside the existing loom. I could have stripped the loom down, but decided it would be faster and simpler to just install the entire loom and only connect the required terminals. Basically, this means you can ignore the lighting (Except the interior light), A/C and fan and other bits and pieces.

ECU

The ECU is mounted in the engine bay in a custom sealed steel box, mounted to the firewall. It's wired to the 70's intact loom.

Immobiliser (Updated 2/10/09)

When I installed the 70-series engine, ECU and loom, it included the immobiliser system for the new engine. The important part of this system is a plastic ring that surrounds the ignition barrel and instructs the ECU to allow the engine to start when the correct transponder key is inserted. So to use the new engine, you MUST have a working master (black) key from the doner 70-series.

The only problem is that the ignition barrel and the transponder key of the 100 is different to the 70's.

The solution is this:

• Remove the 100-series ring from the ignition barrel, and install the 70-series ring in it's place.
• Have a hybrid key cut and programmed. To achieve this, I needed to attend a locksmith who was equipped with a transponder key programming machine, and provide them with an original 100-series key (so a new key which would operate the doors and ignition barrel could be physically cut). I also needed an original (black) key from the doner 70-series. The transponder code from this key is then written to the new key, and I ended up with a hybrid key that incorporated the 100's cut with the 70's transponder.

Because Toyota changed their immobiliser system in ~2002, it's not possible to program the 70's immobiliser to recognise the 100's key transponder, hence the need for new keys.

Ignition Barrel

This is a key connection point for the 70 series loom into the 100 series. Leaving most of the 100 series loom connected to the barrel (with the exception of the "start" wire) to allow the vehicle systems to operate, while connecting the 70 series loom to the 100 series barrel in parallel. I had to test the 70 series wires manually, as the Factory Service Manual wiring diagram had different wire colour listing to those found on the vehicle. These were the connections I made:

Gauges

Temperature:
The V8's temp sensor goes straight to the computer, so I wanted to use the 100's sensor for the gauge. I did this by putting a small water line between the heater hoses and installing the 100's sensor in that line.

Oil Pressure/Level:
I simply connected the 100's wiring loom to both the oil pressure and oil level sensors, as the 70's sensors are only connected to the gauge, not the ECU.

Tacho:
TBA

Speedo:
I currently have the 100's dash speedo connected normally, but there is no speed input going to the ECU. The solution to this is TBA.

Alternator, Battery and Starter

I removed the wiring for the 100's starter and the main charge line from the alternator.

Connecting the intact 1VD engine loom to the battery connects it's starter and alternator charge lines. Charging then operates through the 70's main charge line and fusible link. The alternator also sends a signal to the ECU and gets it's power through the 1VD's "Engine" fuse. In order to have the dashboard charge warning light work properly, I found it necessary to connect the 100's charge warning light wire to the 1VD's alternator. On my vehicle, this meant connecting the Black/Orange wire on the 100's alternator loom to the Yellow wire from the 1VD's alternator connector plug.

Making the ignition barrel connections detailed above allows the 1VD's starting and glow plug circuits to operate. I removed the 100's starter motor wires from the engine bay as they were no longer required.

I originally had a dual battery system in the 100, but I had to remove the 2nd battery to make room for the Donaldson air cleaner. It might have been possible to use a smaller air cleaner and install a small 2nd battery, but as I moved my 2nd battery into my camper trailer, I had no need for it in the Cruiser.

Air Conditioning

I used the 1VD's compressor. There isn't really a choice, as it mounts differently to the 100 compressor and the 1VD uses a serpentine belt to drive all the ancillaries. I doubt it would be possible to mount the 100's compressor to the V8.

The 70's AC compressor has a three-wire loom. One wire activates the clutch, while the other two are for the ECU for idleup etc. The 100's compressor has a single wire that only activates the clutch. I connected this wire (Green/SilverDots) in parallel to the 70's clutch wire (Yellow/Green), and left the 70's 3 wires connected as well.

Update 2/10/09: I have just had the gas lines for the compressor hooked up by David Roberts Automotive in Penrith. Because Toyota have changed their proprietary A/C fittings, I needed to use the lines from both the 100 and the 70 and have them welded together in order to get the AC lines connected. Total cost was $350 including regas. On David's advice, I also changed one of the electric engine fans to trip on with the compressor, rather than being thermatically controlled.

Power Steering

I had a custom power steer pressure line made by my local Pirtek for $150. This line used the 1VD's pump banjo fitting (with pressure sensor), connected to the 100's steering box fitting via a 40cm flexible hose.

From there, I used my old 100 series reservoir (as the 70's was damaged), and attached the return line to the reservoir and reservoir to the pump.

Fans and Cooling (Updated 18/8/10)

Once I refitted the bullbar and summer arrived, I discovered that the 100's radiator just wasn't up to the task, especially when towing.

I've now installed a heavy-duty aluminium radiator from Aussie Desert Cooler. They also fitted the BA Falcon fan module, however the assembly proved too thick to fit, so I removed the module and replaced it with twin Davies-Craig 14" low profile electric fans.

It's winter as I write this, and the new radiator seems to be doing the job, with no sign of overheating at highway speeds irrespective of the load. At low speed/high load situations though, the temp does still increase although to a much lower level than previously. I have some doubt that the low profile fans will be sufficient in high temperature, high load, low speed situations.

The Falcon fan module provides both higher airflow than the twin fans, plus a shroud ensuring that air is drawn through the entire radiator. It may be that I'll have to perform some modifications to the module to squeeze it in, should the twin fans not cope with summer temperatures.

Comparing thickness of original and Aussie Desert Cooler	Front of original and Aussie Desert Cooler radiators	Back of radiators fitted with Ford Falcon fan modules	Back of radiators - one fitted with twin Davies-Craig fans

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